The Gallery of Modern Art is officially one of my favourite places in Brisbane. Out of all the capital cities in Australia, Brisbane gets to host the "Valentino, Retrospective: Past/Present/Future" exhibition at the GoMA! I went to see the gallery last Saturday with Karen and it was the best exhibition I have ever seen (Yes, it trumps the Pixar 20th Anniversary exhibition in Melbourne in 2008).
The exhibition is really well laid-out. It starts with what Valentino does the best - an evening gown in his signature "Valentino red" from his very first collection in 1965. It then opens up to the first gallery, where garments are grouped according to textile (eg feathers, leather and fur), prints (eg floral and animal prints), colours, silhouetts and techniques. When I walked into this hall, it literally took my breath away I had to gasp. The enormous space is filled with so many different colours, patterns and shapes it is like couture heaven. The second section is a display of documentory videos, fashion magazines from different decades and a huge picture board presenting the history of the Valentino house. The second gallery is arranged mainly by colours; white, black and red. One section is dedicated to pieces from his last collection while the exhibition finishes with the 2009 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli.
Unlike the Les Arts exhibition in Paris, all the garments are displayed in the open space (on specially made-to-measure mannequins belonging to Mr Valentino himself, of course). I felt like I was having an intimate experience with the couture gowns. You can see every stitch, every sequin, every inch of the fabric. The craftsmanship and the details are so amazing. Looking the clothes from a distance (or on style.com on a computer screen) simply does not do them justice. For the whole four hours that I was there I was just bombarded by beauty and colours. The combination of colours and the juxtaposition of fabrics are so creative. I think I saw a few colours that I did not even know existed ?! Each garment has their own unique character. His designs are so classic, so elegant, so feminine and so timeless. There are pieces from his 60's or 70's collections that are completely wearable today.
I am surprised that Alessandra Facchinetti was not even mentioned at all in the exhibition. Personally I love the few collections that she has done. I thought they were romantic, light, young and elegant. I guess that can be the exact reason that got her dismissed. Too approaching for a couture house maybe?
The new duo definitely have a different direction from the traditional Valentino. They are tougher and more modern. When compared to the collections designed by Valentino himself, their garments seem to be lacking femininity, class and delicacy. Whether they can uphold the Valentino legend is still questionable. But one thing is certain; Mr Valentino is an absolute legend and we will always love his talent!
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